In the mid 1890s, the fashionable sleeve was a puffy sleeve, peaking in volume around 1895 or 1896.
(from Le Mode de Paris, August, 1895. Le Mode de Paris was one the fashion magazines put out by the A McDowell Co, that promised to bring the latest French fashions to an American Audience. Inside the Front cover of many of these Magazines was a pattern drafting column called “Practical Lessons on Dressmaking”, presenting a cape, a sleeve, a skirt, or a jacket. Many of those lessons assumed that the reader had a master pattern, or better yet, a McDowell Garment Drafting Machine.)
The trend started to appear in about 1892. Here is a modestly puffed sleeve from La Mode Pratique 1:277-278 (35) 6 Août 1892. It was used as the basis for even larger sleeves, but I haven’t quite figured out these other drafts yet.
The suggested meausrements arent given, so I’ll use the values from the previous pattern
The following changes are made from the previous pattern:
P is 6 cm above F The curve GK is rotated out 3 cm (producing Q) The line HD is rotated out 4 cm (producing R)
| French | English translation | default value |
|---|---|---|
| Contour d’emmanchure | armhole | 50 cm |
| Longueur de l’emmanchure au poignet | shoulder to wrist | 58 cm |
| Longueur de l’emmanchure au coude | shoulder to elbow | 31.5 cm |
| Longeuer du coude au poignet | elbow to wrist | 26.5 cm |
Click on the picture for an interactive version of this pattern. Use the sliders to change the measurements.
