I was rereading Patterns of Fashion 2 the other day, and spotted several 1890s drafting instructions, all attributed to “Le Moniteur de la Mode. The Lady’s Magazine.” This is likely to be a English Language edition, as the dates do not line up with the French version. While Arnold includes illustrations of patterns from 1869 through 1912, it’s the period from 1890-1900 that most interests me, as earlier patterns were somehat crude, and later patterns weren’t drafted to measure.
- 1891
- Gored Skirt 1 Oct 1891
- Fan Skirt 1 Augus 1891
- Umbrella Skirt 1 Oct 1891
- Draped Bodice 1 April 1891
- 1892
- Gored Skirt 1 August 1892
- French Skirt 1 Aug 1892
- 1893
- Restoration Skirt 1 January 1893
- Bell Skirt 1 March 1893
- New Skirt 1 September 1893 -1894
- Skirt withh Organ Pipe Pleats 1 Feb 1894
- New Trained Skirt 1 April 1894
- Giugot Sleeve 1 May 1894
- Fan Skirt 1 June 1894
- Gigot Sleeve August 1894 -1895
- Rejane Skirt December 1895 -1896
- New (puffed) Sleeve January 1896
- Papillon Skirt May 1896
- Juuana Sleeve May 1896
- Ball Dress January 1897
So, I resolved to search out these patterns (so as to read the instructions)– a difficult task, as ebay venders do not always print the cover pages legibly. I’m led to believe that the patternmaking columns of interest are called “Cours de Coupe” (circa 1891) amd “Ètudes de Coupe” (circa 1894). I have obtained the number 52 from 1894, and lucky for me, it contains an index.
Pattern drafting instructions published in 1894 include Jupe éventail, Nouveaux collets, Collet tailleur, and Veste d’amazone. Now, all I need do is translate the page numbers into issue numbers, and buy those seven issues. I also learned that the Deluxe Edition of this magazine was published under the name Revue de la Mode– somewhat of a chaage as the pre 1890 issues of that title available through Europeana do not strike me as particularly deluxe.
Le Moniteur de la Mode 52:(52) 617-628
I also have the first issue of 1895, but I haven’t scanned this in yet.